Awards and awards season is in full swing. Red carpet events introduce us to a new trend, namely the accessorization of male stars who are increasingly using men's jewelry.
Stars such as Chadwick Boseman, Timothée Chalamet, Sam Rockwell or even Luke Kirby literally stole the show from their female colleagues by wearing jewelry that was not necessarily expected there. Apart from things such as quite ordinary men's bracelets, they could be seen wearing exceptional jewelry from the greatest jewelers, for example Cartier. This new way of dressing could well influence the man in the street, push him to rethink his relationship to fashion accessories.
Hip-hop actors and artists, the first ambassadors of men's jewelry
It's not just the actors who bring a fresh perspective to the issue of men's jewelry, which did not thrill the crowds a few years ago. Adam Lambert was the center of attention when he showed up at the Academy Awards with earrings like a Christmas tree. If hip-hop had already taken hold of the diamond, the stars are experimenting more and more with jewels considered feminine, in particular pearls or thin necklaces that shine with 1000 sparkles.
Men's jewelry: an accessory that stands at a turning point in its history
Conversations revolving around men's jewelry are experiencing a turning point in their history, according to Benjamin G. Guttery, gemologist and jewelry consultant who is the author of the blog Third Coast Gems. “Men are starting to think they can be themselves, wear something that truly represents them without being looked at as Liberace. » Liberace being an American star who was known for his excesses and flamboyant style.
According to Guttery, men now see beyond traditional wedding bands or cufflinks. They do not hesitate to venture into more exotic waters to start the accumulation of bracelets, necklaces with pendants or pin's, the modern brooch. The latter are also very popular, a trademark of men who parade on the red carpet. "You can wear it really well with jeans and a suit jacket, or with a 3-piece suit, " he said.
The reasons behind these changes
This pivotal moment in men's fashion, when elegant men finally no longer hesitate to break the codes when it comes to jewelry, is to be credited to men's fashion that is becoming more "theatrical" in general, according to Nick Verreos of the Los Angeles Fashion Institute, who regularly commentates on high-profile American events.
"I think the first impetus came from Virgil Abloh, creative director of Louis Vuitton, who really encouraged men to take stylistic risks, " he said. "Today, to put it bluntly, fashion is no longer considered the preserve of gay men. »
Verreos says that today, members of the show business community are beginning to understand that a well-chosen brooch or a beautiful pin "is the perfect proof that the you feel good about yourself". For Neil Lane, "it's refreshing to see guys who add something special to their look, it gives them a touch of sophistication and originality. »
A return to basics?
But for some, it's anything but a surprise. Fashion follows cycles, and when it comes to jewelry there was a time when it was just as masculine as it was feminine, and sometimes even more for men in some areas of the world. Elizabeth Anne Bonanno: “If you delve a bit into the history of jewelry, for example in India, you find that most of the pieces were meant to be worn by men. The peacock spirit was basically the idea behind it all," the most powerful and wealthy men trying to get their hands on the rarest and most rare men's jewelry precious.
But when we entered the 20th century, something changed. Wearing jewellery has become a style mistake, men had to be sober to be elegant, she explains. “Today, we know how much, for the majority of men, jewelry is considered a feminine accessory." In the 1980s, diamond giant De Beers attempted to challenge this stereotype with an ad campaign featuring sports stars wearing diamond jewelry, in an effort to prove that they could be masculine. But the campaign was a resounding failure.
In the 90s, American rappers started covering themselves in diamonds. In the form of earrings, rings and necklaces. This look might have thrown some, it was not enough to convince the man in the street to imitate them.
"These men's jewels were so daring, so crazy, that most men couldn't wear them, " said Soraya Cayen, owner of a Californian jewelry store. “But today we are seeing less exuberant models appear, men's jewelry that can easily be adopted outside the spotlight. »
She believes this is not a passing trend, but rather the beginning of a new era, of a cultural change in which man will once again be free to wear the fashion accessories he wants. For Verreos, who comments on high-profile events for ABC and E!, we are witnessing the start of something brilliant.
" The lapel of a men's jacket is the perfect medium to show off a beautiful piece of jewelry, whether it's diamond, pearl or silver plating," he said . "That's so much better than rolling up your sleeve to reveal your watch, " he concluded.